The installation of Cedral weatherboard cladding is very similar to the method explained further down, with some key differences and potential complications.
The cladding battens are much larger to allow for increased airflow, and must be fitted a set distance apart and screwed in a certain place to prevent the boards from rattling in strong wind. A DPC membrane must also be used on the corners and joints in order to prevent water damage to the weatherboard cladding.
These instructions are often overlooked by unqualified fitters, and when this cladding is not fitted by a Cedral installer, moisture often ends up trapped behind the weatherboards. This moisture is then absorbed by the cladding and eventually leads to efflorescence, staining and peeling paint due to damp conditions.
The only way to fix Cedral weatherboard cladding to which this has occurred is to take it all down and start again, this time with an experienced Cedral installer like ourselves.






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Fit the breather membrane to the substrate in line with the membrane manufacturer's recommendations. Install insect mesh profiles along both the bottom and top of the area being clad. These mesh positions establish the upper and lower lines for the cladding battens, so make sure the mesh is straight and level.
Install the vertical cladding battens between the upper and lower vent profiles. Space the battens uniformly at 400mm centres and ensure they are correctly aligned and plumb. Batten screw heads should sit slightly below the surface so that they cannot interfere with the cladding.
Fit the starter trim at the bottom of the battens with no gap between the starter trim and insect mesh. Allow for the cladding to project approximately 15–25mm beyond the mesh and starter trim, depending on the type of cladding being installed.
At the top of the battens, install the first section of any 2-part trim and make sure there is no gap between the edge trim and insect mesh. Screw-fix all trims at a maximum spacing of 250mm centres, or at every batten.
Install the required Universal Edge Trims, Corner Trims and Joint Trims. If 2-part trims are being used, install and cut only the first section at this stage. Leave the second section uncut until the cladding boards have been installed.
Install the first cladding board onto the starter trim, checking that the hook on the rear of the panel is completely engaged with the starter trim. Make sure both the starter trim and first board are level, as their position will determine the alignment of every board installed above them.
When boards are cut and positioned, maintain the recommended 8mm expansion gap at all edge trims and joint trims, including around window and door openings.
Screw-fix the cladding at every batten. Drive each fixing screw flush into the fixing groove so that the screw cannot interfere with the installation of the next board.
Continue installing the boards, making sure the rear hook of each new board is fully engaged over the board beneath before it is screw-fixed. Regularly check the courses for level while installation progresses.
If the final top board has to be cut and is therefore not a complete board, install a packing piece behind it so that its front face remains aligned with the boards below. Suitable packing can be made from cladding off-cuts or timber trim that meets the cladding batten specification.
After all of the cladding boards have been secured, cut the second sections of the 2-part trims to size and install them to complete the trim details.
Where necessary, install a suitable cover strip or drip trim across the top of the installation to stop rainwater from entering the cavity behind the cladding.
Stuck on what colour to choose or style? Request a free sample! As Millboard Cladding Installers we are able to order free colour and style samples to help you choose which option is best for your home. Simply click the button and request your sample.
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